Strangers then friends...

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If Matapouri is for the surfer and Tutukaka the game fisherman, Ngunguru River is perfect for a river cruise - bush lined, peaceful and home to so much history it should be declared 'a must do'.

This former scow infested river is definitely historic, and as we motor upstream mine workers cottages soon give way to rimu, totara and manuka trees mixed with willows and ferns.
It's two hours before high tide.  "We'll just feel our way up." says Capt Percy.
I'm on board MV Kiteawa a 24' luxury pontoon boat 'fully surveyed for a maximum of fifteen passengers' and we're spending 3-4 hours exploring the river.
Capt Percy is an expert on this area and points out former tram lines, hidden bridge abutments and a rusty scotch boiler.  
"From as early as 1892 these coal mines and clay quarries serviced Auckland needs..." he says as he paints word pictures reminding us how things once were.
Facts and figures, stories and sunshine abound as we meander upstream past honking geese, tail swinging cattle and a family of picnickers at shady Scow Landing.
This is Wind in the Willows country and is beautiful even with numerous well established garden escapees and regenerating bush.    
Nudging into the bank on numerous occasions, passengers have time to share their stories as we are gently guided upstream.
"See that over there, that's where there was an incline tramway to the Panapo Coal mine at Kiripaka".   
Doing the river cruise with Capt Percy is like spending time with someone who either remembers it as it was or collected the stories from those who did.
As the river narrows,a wharf pile juts of the bank, this is where we turn to glide back downstream.
Methane bubbles rise from underground deposits of coal along the shore line.
The river widens and as we pass, on the bank by the landing, a fisherman and his family squeal in delight - they've just caught a little shimmering fish.
Soon we're piercing through a mangrove lined tributary and into Butcher's Creek.
 'Now make sure your arms are inside as we go through here.' says Capt Percy as we brush the olive green mangrove branches aside.
"This was a bay with sandy beaches before the mangroves grew so much" he says.
Capt Percy has no opinion on the mangroves, but he doesn't like them.
"They need to be managed,' he continues... "those historic mangroves in the background are huge - its all mud & ooze at low tide." 
Back in the main channel the water turns from green to blue/green and as our speed increases, a small bow wave creates a pretty wake.
With our heads full of fascinating information, its time for a bite to eat and where better than ashore on the site of an early boarding house.    We'd been prepared for the barking, braying and snorting welcome, and know who to give our banana skins to.
Back on board, our return up the river takes us past Cape Horn Cemetery with its twisted pine trees (water access only), punt tied to a mangrove branch, road culverts, bush and back to the landing.
While we arrived as strangers we sure departed as friends.
Captain Percys Historic River Cruises.
P: 09 437 5500 or M: 027 271 3505

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